Peonies without flowers

Question: Peonies without flowers

my bulbous peony is already 2 years that does not bloom ... because my hydrangeas bloom little ... because

Answer: Peonies without flowers

Dear Rossella,
the herbaceous peonies, with rhizomatous roots, have a splendid flowering, but they are not very easy to cultivate, and above all also the least disturbance, due to the climate, or to other factors, refers to flowering for a year. Typically, the main reason why herbaceous peonies do not bloom at all, producing however a beautiful bush of lush green leaves, is due to the fact that the rhizomes have been planted excessively in depth: these plants need to give roots at around 3 -6 cm from the surface, as our grandparents used to say "they must hear the bells", otherwise they do not bloom at all. Other reasons for the lack of flowering may be due to the climate: a really very rainy spring, or on the other hand excessively dry; an excessively cold climate, or even very hot even in early spring. Or it could be a problem of exposure, in most Italian regions they love very sunny positions, especially with the morning sun; in the south and in the islands it is preferable to have a lighter sun, with a little shade in the afternoon, warmer. Pot cultivation is not recommended because these plants need a large, undisturbed earth to be able to develop at their best; they should therefore be placed in the ground, and away from any other shrubs, and even by their roots: consider that in order to grow a herbaceous peony well it is necessary to leave it available a circular area of ​​at least 80 cm in diameter, without there being nothing else that disturbs them (in the sense, even the roots of an excessively close tree are sufficient to prevent the peony from blooming). Also the soil is important, it must be not excessively alkaline, soft and deep, and very rich, but without the roots coming into contact with manure or granular fertilizers; then fertilize by wetting the soil around the head of leaves with water and fertilizer, every 12-15 days; fertilization is also essential to make the rhizomes well developed, or else we will not have flowers the following year; in the same way it is very important to let the large leaves vegetate at will, cutting them at the base only when they begin to yellow and wither independently; until that moment, they are watered and fertilized normally. The hydrangeas, on the other hand, love semi-shaded positions, because the summer heat dry them up within a few hours (you can keep them in full sun, but in this case in July you will have to water 3 times a day); the soil must be specific to acidophilic plants, or inexorably affected by ferric chlorosis, which makes plants stunted and leaves yellowish. A good fertilizer, supplied periodically, from March to October, is important, choosing one specifically for acidophilic flowering plants. Finally, pruning: hydrangeas pruned drastically at the end of winter, tend to produce many leaves and few flowers. If you cultivate them in pots, they need to be repotted every 3-4 years, or you can lift some old soil and replace it with fresh and rich soil.